When it comes to dermaplaning see a licensed esthetician and don't attempt at home. I know - bold statement to start with, but let me tell you why.
In my experience, clients that try these disposable at home "dermaplaning" razors complain of burning skin, lack of results, quick hair growth and more. Not only can those disposable razors damage your skin barrier, they do not compare to true dermaplaning and are simply eyebrow razors remarketed (sad, I know).
WHAT IS DERMAPLANING?
Dermaplaning is the use of a stainless steel blade (a scalpel) to manually exfoliate your skin and remove vellus hair (peach fuzz). The blade is set at a different angle with an edge that is less sharp than a traditional razor and cuts a thicker keratin protein structure in the terminal hair. The purpose of dermaplaning is to improve your overall skin appearance - the removal of the vellus hair is just a bonus. By sluffing off the dead skin you'll achieve better product penetration, a smoother skin texture, and a brighter appearance.
THE DERMAPLANING EXPERIENCE
During the service, the licensed professional (dermatologist or esthetician) will ensure your skin is cleansed and free of dirt, oil, makeup or other debris. Holding the blade at a 45 degree angle, the skin will slowly be scraped to sluff off dead skin cells that are dulling its appearance, along with vellus hair (the amount of vellus hair will vary per individual).
While there is no downtime with this procedure, hydrating products and SPF are extremely important. We want to nourish the skin to maintain a healthy barrier, and protect the new skin being exposed from the damaging rays of the sun. Other things to avoid for 24 hours following a dermaplane are: chemical exfoliants, retinol, excessive heat (saunas, working out - try not to sweat), and chlorine. Results vary but will typically wear off around 3-4 weeks (average skin cell cycle), so incorporating this into your monthly maintenance facial is advised.
AM I A GOOD DERMAPLANING CANDIDIATE?
Not everyone should partake in dermaplaning. Although it is an ideal method of manual exfoliation for most, a licensed professional should evaluate your skin and hair type to determine if it is right for you (another reason to kick those disposable razors to the curb).
Those with active acne, infections or cold sores pose the chance of spreading bacteria or viruses creating a wider spread infection. This can lead to additional inflammation, possible pigmentation and even scarring. Medical conditions and internal health also play a role and can affect hair regrowth. If an individual has PCOS (polycystic ovaries disease) for example, the hair regrowth may be negatively impacted if this manual exfoliation is performed.
AT HOME "DERMAPLANING"
At home dermaplaning tools can leave you with skin irritation, dryness, sensitivity to sunlight, risk of cuts and scarring, bacterial spread and a damaged barrier.
If you're looking for true results, see a professional. There can be too much of a good thing and an esthetician will guide you on skin health, and frequency to ensure results.
SHAVING VS DERMAPLANING
If you're looking to remove the vellus hair, just grab a razor and call it a day. If you're looking for a more thorough, precise method of exfoliation then opt for the professional dermaplane.